Jonathan Anderson: I think the first show you came to of mine was a spring/summer one.
Donatella Versace: It was the one with the men in collars.
Jonathan Anderson: I think you were more obsessed with the men. (laughs)
Donatella Versace: I was obsessed with the men! I think when I saw your work first, I liked it very much but at the same time I didn’t understand it. But then I went back and went back. Then I said, ‘This guy is a genius. I need to have a conversation with him because we need to exchange what we believe in.’ I like that you’re fearless and not afraid to provoke.
Jonathan Anderson: It was quite interesting really, because on our moodboard we had a lot of imagery from Versus. I think what was achieved with Versus, with the catalogues, the collections, the energy – how things were done was new, and it’s still new today. That’s what genius is about – ultimately it’s about actually taking a risk. Every image I look back on could be put right into a magazine now and it would feel relevant, and that’s the hardest thing to do. What I really like about the imagery is that you want to be part of a gang. It’s like you want to be drawn into the character, and that’s what’s important in clothing in general, because there is a reality to it. I remember when you sent these massive boxes that landed at my studio, full of magazines, books, photographs…
Donatella Versace: I sent you all the information.
Jonathan Anderson: And so I literally spent a whole weekend going through it. It was stuff I’d never seen and which now you just take for granted, but these were massive statements that changed the course of fashion. I’m very honoured because you let me have free rein, which has been incredible. Because it was a period of time, I think ultimately you can’t fix something like that. It’s genius, it’s iconic.
Donatella Versace: You know what? It’s timeless too.
Jonathan Anderson: It’s timeless. When you look through the past, all of it is relevant right now because it’s part of the story of the house. It’s become a massive influence on a whole market.
Donatella Versace: I’m glad I was there but I don’t miss it. I loved every minute of those times. Things happen that you never forget and that can never happen again, ever. It was a time of excess and loudness in many aspects, but at the same time there was another side that was very discreet. Of course we won, the loud one! (laughs) But you know why that part won? Because there was a lot of personalities, like top models – you know, these great girls with great personalities, attitude. We didn’t have to interview anybody else – it was not like now, we create a girl with the look…
Jonathan Anderson: They were there.
Donatella Versace: They helped us. They were very creative themselves and there was competition between the models backstage, you could feel the razor… (laughs) After Gianni died, then that time was no more. Ah, I think we miss great photographers. There are a lot of good young photographers but there is not a new Bruce Weber.
Jonathan Anderson: No, there only ever will be one.
Donatella Versace: You couldn’t stop looking at his pictures. This was like, wow! It was totally different from everything else, very provocative – half-naked men, more boys, women, clothes. We were always looking for the new thing, the next model, a new emotion and attitude. Now everything is the same, I find. Maybe it’s not the fault of the photographer, it’s the fault of the commercial factor. The commercial part is very important because you need to be real, but it’s also important to be fearless. In the end I think that what is important is the idea. I was always pushing for something that nobody did. So I said to you, ‘This is what Gianni did, this is who I am and what I did for Versus. But just see it through your eyes; be free to do it through your eyes.’
Jonathan Anderson: I threw myself into it. I was just so excited to go through the archive, because I love the brand. People probably think we’re quite far apart but I just went for it in the end.
Donatella Versace: What I love is attention to detail. You went through the archive for days just surrounded by clothes – it was mesmerising.
Jonathan Anderson: For me it’s always a rejection process. You kind of OD on everything, and then it’s like, ‘Okay, we’re ready to start.’ I wanted things a little more twisted because ultimately you want to modernise it. And you really pushed me on the colour thing, because it’s something that I’m maybe not so great at but you know colour so perfectly.
Jonathan Anderson: When I think of the brand and youth I like the idea of a shared wardrobe, that you can pick up a sweater and anyone can wear it. It could be bigger on a woman or small and tight on a guy – it gives different vibes and energy. Maybe androgyny is a little bit old-fashioned. There’s something different here, it’s a little bit more…
“If you can find one element in that collection that you are turned on by, then fantastic, we’ve done our job” – Jonathan Anderson
Donatella Versace: It was more about a tribe. You know, for so long you didn’t see a show that mixed boys and girls – the last one was ten years ago, fifteen years ago. But this is right now. This is a group of people with a special personality, who want to say something. Youth are not afraid. They want something they can be inspired by.
Jonathan Anderson: They want something really gritty. If there’s something we can achieve here it’s ultimately to challenge, because that’s what fashion is about – you have to challenge people’s opinions on things. Unisex is the most modern thing that a lot of people do not touch on. That’s why I don’t see it as a guy wearing a dress or a girl wearing a man’s jacket. It’s not about that – it’s about challenging people’s perceptions to make them think. The internet’s about that – it’s about finding new things. Every day you go on the internet and you can find something new. If you can find one element in that collection that you are turned on by, then fantastic, we’ve done our job.
Donatella Versace: Yes, I agree with you. It was because I was doing Versus again that I did Vunk for Versace. Because I was feeling like a rebel again.
Jonathan Anderson: I remember when the H&M collaboration happened, you realised that people love this brand. It went straight to a younger audience and they had a hunger for it.
Donatella Versace: Many people were not even born when these things first came out, but the reaction was amazing. I was talking to kids and to the internet. I was surprised and honoured, I felt so humble. You know, because this is not journalist to journalist, it’s the world.
Jonathan Anderson: I think Versus is going to have an organic process. It’s going to do what the world tells it to do, and that’s what the internet is about.
Donatella Versace: The internet is the new house of fashion. I think Versus is totally different today to what it was in the past because it’s going to be online. I always live and learn – I love to challenge myself. If you feel you’ve reached something you’re finished, and I don’t feel like I’ve reached anything yet. I want to reach different crowds – I want to talk to musicians, I want to talk to artists. The age we’re in now is so exciting. It gives me more energy.
