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Is your hair thinning?
Spotting the subtle signs early can be key to restoring fullness and volume.
While genetics play a major role, lifestyle factors like stress, diet, and hormonal changes can also contribute, says Johan Hellström, stylist to the Swedish royals and Björn Axén CEO.
“Hair loss can also be linked to the health of the scalp since an imbalanced scalp can prevent hair growth.”
Thankfully, identifying the root cause of hair thinning might be easier than you think.
Experts offer insights into the less obvious indicators of hair thinning and how to address them.
Causes of hair loss and thinning
“The most common types of hair loss we tend to see are due to hair shedding and breakage,” explains trichologist and owner of Philip Kingsley, Anabel Kingsley.
“Telogen effluvium – known as hair shedding – is usually triggered by an internal disturbance to the body such as, but not limited to, illness, stress, postpartum or nutritional changes or deficiencies.
“The shedding occurs usually six to 12 weeks after the event that triggered it, so it is always important to look back to pinpoint the reason,” Ms Kingsley says.
Breakage is another cause of hair thinning.
“This often occurs from dryness or damaged hair, causing hair to become weak and brittle, and breaks due to moisture depletion,” she adds.
While hair care plays a factor, other reasons for sudden hair thinning can be down to “hormonal changes, medications, excessive styling or simply due to ageing”, Rainbow Room’s director Wil Fleeson says.
The first sign of hair thinning
You may now be looking at your hair brush and starting to panic, but it’s normal to shed up to 100 strands a day.
“But if you see a fluctuation where you are shedding too much hair or many more hairs than what you consider to be your ‘normal’, then this will usually indicate some internal disturbance or imbalance,” Ms Kingsley says.
Some of the first signs of hair thinning include “a noticeable widening of the hair parting, a receding hairline – which is more common in men but can also occur in women, a weaker hair texture – so hair that feels finer and lacks volume – and slower hair growth”, explains Dr Nora, medical dermatology doctor at Rejuvenation Clinic.
How you can prevent hair thinning
“Your hair is a clear barometer of how you feel,” explains Mr Hellström.
“It’s the first thing to deteriorate when you have a mineral deficiency, for example, so diet is key.”
Like most issues, prevention is easier than cure.
“Take a look at what you’re putting into your body, not just applying to your head,” notes celebrity stylist and Fudge Professional global ambassador Jonathan Andrew.
“Upping your vitamin and omega 3 supplements, and adding nuts and seeds such as walnuts, Brazil nuts, almonds, chia seeds can play a key role in hair growth.”
For active hair thinning, Ms Kingsley recommends addressing hormonal sensitivity with “hair follicle stimulants such as methyl nicotinate”, along with anti-androgenic medications, stress management and prescription scalp drops.
Minoxidil is another ingredient to look out for that is known to support hair growth.
“This can be used for both male and female hair loss,” Mr Andrew says.
Scandinavian Biolabs Bio-Pilixin Activation Serum, £49
Björn Axén Scalp Detox Scrub, £23
Habits that can contribute to hair thinning
“Pulling your hair back too tightly can cause breakage, and in severe cases, traction alopecia,” Ms Kingsley warns.
“If a style is giving you a headache, it’s too tight.”
She also advises against using a boar bristle brush, as “it can scratch both the hair and scalp, causing substantial accumulative damage”.
Instead, you should use a brush with long, flexible plastic prongs.
Of course, like most issues when it comes to our hair, heat can be a big culprit. “Overuse of heated styling tools is one of the worst contributors,” Mr Fleeson says.
“Not only does heat flatten the follicle, but if already damaged, this can weaken it further and damage the hair shaft, resulting in breakage and excess thinning.”
Philip Kingsley Vented Paddle Brush, £27
The best hairstyles for thinning hair
There are some hairstyles that are naturally more flattering for thinning hair.
“For guys, if the hair is thinning at the front or on top, a shorter crop can work very well,” says Mr Andrew.
“Waxes and pastes can also be used to boost texture and volume.
“For women, short bobs with graduation, texture and invisible layers can be a great solution,” he says.
“Very long hair probably won’t do you any favours, as this will pull the hair flat.”
For those looking for a quick fix, master stylist at Josh Wood Colour Katherine De Rozario suggests the ‘root smudge’ technique.
This creates a root shadow by dabbing a slightly lighter hair colour to your roots, resulting in fully covered roots and a seamless blend from root to highlight.
“It creates the appearance of a fuller hairline while also covering greys,” says Ms De Rozario.
L’Oreal Paris Magic Retouch Brown Root Touch Up, £9.99, Boots
Fudge Professional Clean Mint Shampoo, £14, Look Fantastic
