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The ‘mob wife’ aesthetic took over TikTok last year, as Gen Z and millennial women sported vintage or faux-fur coats, gaudy jewellery and large, dark glasses.
Now, this ostentatious mafioso style has taken over menswear.
Taking its cues from The Godfather and The Sopranos, Milan Men’s Fashion Week brought some extravagant glamour to the runways.
Perhaps ignited by Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton 2024/25 collection with his floor-length dusters; Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada followed suit this season with fur, velvet and pinstriped tailoring.
Dolce & Gabbana kicked off the weekend with a roster glitz and glamour, with a collection aptly named ‘Paparazzi’.
The term paparazzo was reportedly coined by Italian film director Federico Fellini, who named his character of a hyperactive news photographer ‘Coriolano Paparazzo’ – inspired by the Italian slang for Mosquito – in the film La Dolce Vita (1960).
Dolce & Gabbana’s show comprised of a wall of ‘paparazzi’, impeccably dressed, buzzing around and capturing the runway.
Moving away from the tailored emphasis of recent seasons, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce embraced the Sixties swagger of La Dolce Vita, with relaxed but flashy looks.
The daywear consisted of casual utility with a dash of glam: incorporating voluminous faux-furs and plush trims that screamed old-age glamour.
The show seamlessly transitioned into sharp tuxedos and silk shirts, steering away from excess and into elegance, perhaps a nod to the current awards season.
Emporio Armani closed Milan’s Saturday night with a chic and moody collection comprising of 111 looks.
While opening with a skiwear section that mixed technical gear, organic dye and patchwork pieces – the show swiftly moved into metallic tailoring, velvet suits and razored pinstripes.
The lurex ribbed knits and leopard loafers proved that the ‘mob husband’ aesthetic is much more than just fur coats.
Undone ties turned into skinny scarves, cheetah trenches and printed blousons – blatantly sexy – blurred the lines between traditional gender-specific tailoring.
The use of rich velvets, glinting embellishments and panelled leather created an utterly beguiling and enthralling atmosphere, as though the audience were watching models through a smoke screen of a vintage jazz bar.
A week of opulence and insouciance culminated at Prada‘s show.
The set, which was comprised of three-story scaffolding, created an open but simultaneously claustrophobic atmosphere.
The set informed the style of the show, which played with duality and contrasts throughout. “We do not want to limit ourselves,” said co-creative director Raf Simons.
Pyjama-style trousers and crewneck knits played against Seventies florals and crumpled silks.
The contrasting styles of gaudy fur trims with relaxed cotton bottoms perhaps showcased a more authentic ‘mob husband’ attire.
From casual caveman to high-end businessman: Prada played with convention by curating a chaotic array of menswear.
Yet the threads of commonality throughout Milan’s menswear shows were undoubtedly animal accents, indulgent fabrics and fluid silhouettes: all components that neatly make a modern mob look.
From Ralph Lauren‘s cashmere and wool-heavy collection to Armani’s faux fur and Prada’s cow print; 2025 autumn/winter menswear is set to be preoccupied with animals, comfort and opulence – and who can dislike that?
