For the past four weeks, H&M has been on a whirlwind tour around the world, landing in all four fashion capitals – New York, London, Milan, and Paris – to throw a series of huge parties. On the eve of LFW kicking off, the high street brand took over a vast events space in East London to put on a gig by Charli xcx and Jamie xx, before hopping over to Milan to throw a massive night amidst MFW (and Dazed was there to document them all).
Next up on H&M’s global journey was Paris, where it celebrated the launch of its AW24 Studio collection with an intimate gig from Olivia Dean. The Studio collection this season draws inspiration from the jazz scene of the 1930s, and sultry stars like Josephine Baker. “We were really thinking about the divas of the era, that was a big word being used when we were first coming up with ideas,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson.
The line, which drops in small batches, utilities premium materials, and has a price point slightly higher than you might associate with H&M, this season comprises neat little skirt suits, whose boxy jackets feature dainty bracelet sleeves and wide-shoulders, glittering sequined t-shirts and diaphanous blouses that flash a hint of bra (or breast, if you’re daring enough).
There’s also louche, wide-legged trousers and slouchy blazers in chic, discrete shades of olive green, and, at the other end of the scale, a series of buttery leather pieces, in the form of a bulky-shouldered moto jacket, matching skinny trousers, and a slick pencil skirt. “There are amazing things happening with (mushroom-made leather alternative) mycelium, but the Studio pieces are meant to be kept forever, and the leather will keep getting better as it ages,” Johansson says.
The pièce de résistance, at least in Johansson’s eyes, is a bolshy, padded trench coat that cinches at the waist with a tie-belt, and is completely covered in a muted leopard print – the motif also features across a number of other garments within the collection, and has been seen across the catwalks this season. “It’s a real standout, I love it so much,” she says. Her customer seems to agree: at the time of writing, just a few sizes remain, with alerts saying even those are low in stock just 24 hours after it dropped.
This is the same as most H&M Studio collections. If you’re not quick, you’re not getting your hands on it. Johansson is in a prime position to be making sellout offerings, though. The designer started on the shop floor at H&M, before joining its Stockholm headquarters as an assistant. From there, she worked her way up to the top, becoming head of design in 2008 – during which time she brought special collections with the likes of Versace, Balmain, and Lanvin to life – before taking on her current role as creative advisor.
As the pinnacle of H&M’s offering, Studio epitomises the future of the brand, with Johansson and the team working hard to shift the ways in which the brand works when it comes to sustainability. “We’re on track to only be using recycled fabrics by 2030, and we’re making progress every day,” she says. “We knew for a long time we couldn’t keep going on as we were, and everyone is very committed to changing things.” The Studio line focuses on timeless design and premium craftsmanship, with Johansson describing the pieces as “things that people will have in their wardrobe forever.”
With just about everything from the first drop of Studio AW24 now sold out, the second lot is set to land on November 21. Keep your eyes peeled.
