Amy Liu isn’t an unlikely beauty brand founder, but the almost immediate viral success of her SOS Daily Facial Rescue Spray is.
The industry veteran worked as an executive at multiple brands before launching Tower 28, a collection of makeup and skincare products formulated specifically for sensitive, eczema-prone skin. It was well received but COVID, maskne and an internet obsession with hypochlorous acid saw her soothing face mist explode. Hypochlorous acid is a super gentle acid that’s antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, but safe for super sensitive skin. It reduces redness, prevents breakouts and rebalances the barrier. Now, it’s a cult brand with celebrity fans (Hailey Bieber included).
To mark the brand’s Australian launch into Mecca, I sat down with Amy to talk about its backstory, the making of a cult product and what actually makes makeup ‘eczema safe’. She’s honest and full of insight. The entire interview, below.
Amy, it’s so nice to meet you. Congratulations on the launch of Tower 28 into Australia…
Thank you, we’ve been working on this for some time and it’s a very exciting moment.
I’ve previously tried your SuperDew Highlighter Balm, but am excited to try the viral SOS Daily Rescue Facial Spray. Why do you think that product has blown up on TikTok?
The facial spray is our number one selling product. It’s interesting because the key ingredient we use is hypochlorous acid, which I think is having a viral moment on its own merit. It’s an ingredient that our body produces naturally. For example if you get a cut or a sunburn, and your body feels that it’s under attack, it produces hypochlorous acid.
It’s antibacterial and anti-inflammatory — it works to calm your skin down and at the same time keep it clean so it can heal itself, in a way? It’s been incredible for us. It’s gentle, it works, and it’s the missing link for so many skin types. It can’t hurt your skin, it only helps it…
It’s a universal formula?
For sure. I’ve had so many customers share the weird ways they use it: for diaper rash, eczema, acne, on flights, post workout. The product has really taken on a life of its own.
It makes sense, because sensitive skin is your thing, and what the brand is now known for, but tell me about how you launched into such a saturated market?
I launched the brand in April of 2019. I’m not an influencer, but I did work in the beauty industry for over 20 years at brands like Maybelline, Smashbox, Josie Maran and Kate Sommerville. I had always wanted to start my own brand to be honest, but I kept thinking I needed more experience, a seat at the table… I felt I wasn’t quite ready. I was also a great number two; I did a lot of the work, the planning and the strategy, but stepping into the role of a founder felt far away.
Suddenly I was turning 40. I had taken four years off from working full time, had my third child and started consulting. I was telling a friend of mine that I wanted to go back full time and he said, ‘but I thought you always wanted to do your own thing?’. I said ‘of course I do but I don’t have the money, I don’t have a partner, I have three kids and a mortgage”. I thought my moment had passed. It’s a long story but unknown to me at the time, someone I met in business school sold his company and offered to invest if I could raise the other half in 30 days. It was tough love but it got me into gear; it almost gamified it. Asking for money is hard, especially as a woman. But I did it. I had the money, and that was what I used to create the products we launched with.
How was the launch — did it take off immediately, or was it more of a slow burn?
We launched in April, but got into Sephora by September. We had half a shelf. But by March, it was Covid. I thought it was over, to be honest. We were really new. But we noticed something happened with the SOS Spray, people were using it to help with maskne. It just happened through word of mouth, people were buying it. We also gifted it to a lot of essential workers. These organic before and after photos started to circulate and it really helped.
I remember Hailey Bieber posting about it, too…
Yes! I almost died. I couldn’t believe it. I had tried to gift her multiple times, but I can only imagine the DMs she gets. I’m sure they filter someplace so she doesn’t have to deal with them… But as far as I know she bought it. She posted on Instagram and TikTok, it was incredibly kind of her.
Has celebrity endorsement helped your brand in a major way?
Of course it does, but it’s been so interesting to see what actually moves the needle in terms of sales. Around the same time as Hailey, a smaller TikTok creator posted the SOS Mist and it went mega-viral. That single video moved a lot of products.
So what sort of formulation philosophies do you follow, given Tower 28 is positioned as the brand for sensitive skin? What are you doing differently?
So we’re one of the only beauty brands that’s 100% compliant with the National Eczema Association. They’re a nonprofit that does research, advocacy and education. They have a ‘seal of acceptance’ that I followed myself before Tower 28 because of personal skin issues. That helped to form our approach to ingredients, more specifically what to leave out — things like fragrance, essential oils, preservatives and chemical SPF filters.
I also thought a lot about clean formulations, Josie Maran was such a leader in that space. ‘Clean’ doesn’t mean natural, and neither of these things mean a product is better for you, but I was very vigilant with formulating in a way that was safe, effective, gentle and free from unnecessary stuff like talc. If I can leave out potential irritants, why wouldn’t I?
I love that you create skincare and makeup, but the common theme is that your products are safe for sensitive skin. How do you decide what to develop, given they’re two big categories?
Initially I was more interested in colour makeup for people with eczema, because there wasn’t a lot on offer, but once the SOS Spray came about, some skincare felt like the right next step. Plus, skincare for those of us with sensitive skin issues isn’t the most inspiring. Fun is a huge part of the brand and what we do.
There’s a lot of products out there so I don’t like to make something unless I think we’re offering something new or different. Every Tower 28 product needs to fix a problem. If you’re telling me cream blushes historically aren’t pigmented enough and they don’t last long enough, I want to fix that — plus I want to formulate in a way that’s safe for sensitive skin. When we first created a bronzer, the National Eczema Association wouldn’t approve it because it has mica in it. You’re allowed to use mica in emulsions, but now powders as they can be airborne, I didn’t know that. So we took it out.
How have you found your transition into being a founder? I imagine there’s a lot of pressure that comes with decision makeup and trusting your gut?
That’s a good question. It’s stressful at times, but I trust myself. Sometimes it just feels like a job, it’s very similar to the work I’ve always done. We had a team event recently where we hired a boat and did karaoke in the harbour. Everyone was leaving and my son said, ‘ do you ever think about how you have to make sure all these people can pay their rent?’ You need blind optimism but a little bit of fear is good. You want to be a little delusional but not ignorant. It’s been very rewarding, and I’m 46, older than a lot of other beauty founders… but it felt live divine timing.
Shop the RUSSH edit
Beach Please Lip + Cheek Cream Blush
SuperDew Shimmer Free Highlighting Balm
SOS Daily Facial Rescue Spray
LipSoftie Tinted Lip Treatment
Images: @amyliu_t28, @tower28beauty
