Cancer-causing chemicals are detected in 100% of hair products tested in new study

Millions of women could be at risk of an increased risk of cancer from popular hair products. 

Braided hairstyles are deeply rooted in Black culture and are a popular choice of hairstyle at salons nationwide that can be worn for weeks at a time. 

However, getting hair braids can be expensive and some women choose to purchase synthetic braiding hair online or at their local beauty shop for a fraction of the cost to be installed in a salon. 

However, these synthetic products are teeming with harmful substances. 

A Consumer Reports investigation determined cancer-causing chemicals were found in each of the 10 most popular synthetic braids, while nine of the ten contained dangerously high levels of lead.

Some of the carcinogens detected included benzene, which is linked to a higher risk of blood cancer; methylene chloride, which is linked to liver and lung cancer in animals; and chloroform, which has been linked to kidney and liver tumors in animals.

Lead exposure, especially over long periods of time, poses significant health issues, from brain and nervous system damage to reproductive problems. Children, who commonly wear synthetic braids, are susceptible to impaired brain development and developmental issues.

For braiders and the people wearing them, exposure is unavoidable. Chemicals can be absorbed through people’s skin on their heads. The hair can become brittle and break off, being consumed accidentally with food. Braiders and their customers may touch their hair, pick up a snack, or place their hands around their mouths. Small children, meanwhile, are also known to chew on the ends of their hair. 

The brands tested included Hbegant, Sensationnel, Debut, Shake-N-Go, Darling, Magic Fingers, and Sassy Collection. Black women are the primary customers of these brands and make up the largest share of consumers of hair wigs and extensions, a market valued at $2.79 billion.

Synthetic hair extensions are extremely popular in the US, mostly among Black women. In 2022, 34 percent of Black women wore braids with synthetic extensions. 

The extensions are sold at beauty supply stores nationwide, as well as big box stores like Walmart. 

Synthetic hair is typically made from nylon, polyester, or acrylic designed to mimic the look and feel of real hair at a lower cost. Kanekalon is also commonly used to make hair extensions as it can hold curls better than human hair. 

The hair is often treated with dyes and plastic coating that contain harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde, benzene, and phthalates, which interfere with the body’s hormone systems, which can lead to reproductive issues, developmental abnormalities, and changes in metabolism.

Despite its size, the market is unregulated, creating a wild west-like environment for a long supply chain of wig and extension manufacturers. The FDA’s cosmetics safety regulations do not include such products because they are not applied directly to the human body like lotions or makeup.

When approached with CR’s findings, the FDA said it ‘cannot comment.’ At the same time, several manufacturers questioned the watchdog group’s methodology and reaffirmed their dedication to putting the highest quality products on the market.

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the 10 samples were tested using EPA method 8260C, with samples prepared by placing hair in water and heating before analysis. 

Heavy metals (arsenic, cadmium, lead) were tested following EPA method 6020B using ICP-MS after digesting samples with acid. The study assessed risks by estimating exposure levels for an adult over 24 hours, comparing the results to established health-based exposure limits for the chemicals. 

While CR did not say what about its methodology was problematic to Hair Zone/Sensationnel, Magic Fingers said CR’s methods ‘do not fairly match the real-world way that our customers use our Magic Finger products. We strongly stand by the safety of our products and the quality materials used to make them.’ 

The team at CR, led by Dr James E Rogers, director and head of product safety testing, tested two samples each of 10 of the most popular products on the market, all a version of black or dark brown hair.

Every product contained multiple carcinogens. Three included benzene which, according to Dr Rogers, ‘is strictly regulated [by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)] and discouraged to use in laboratories because of its potential to cause cancer.’

Per OSHA, the permissible exposure limit for benzene is 1 part per million (ppm) over an 8-hour workday and a 40-hour workweek. 

Most women with synthetic braids keep them for four to six weeks, meaning she could be exposed to benzene far surpassing what is deemed safe for laboratory workers. 

Two products contained an animal carcinogen, and all of them contained methylene chloride, a probable carcinogen.

Ninety percent of the products contained lead.

Dr Rogers said: ‘Our exposure and risk analysis found all nine products could expose a regular user of any of these products to a level of lead that could be concerning over time.’

Multiple products tested harbored lead levels exceeding the Maximum Allowable Dose Level (MADL, established by the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment) by several hundred percent.

Four products had moderate contamination, with lead levels ranging from 123 percent to 198 percent of MADL, including brands like Shake-N-Go FreeTress, Sensationnel Lulutress, Hbegant, and Debut.

Five products had high lead contamination, ranging from 338 percent to 610 percent of MADL, with the Sassy Collection 100% Kanekalon Jumbo Braid showing the highest level. 

Notably, a children’s braiding hair product from Sensationnel contained 338 percent MADL.

While MADL suggests there is an acceptable level of lead exposure, scientists worldwide have concluded that no amount of lead exposure is safe. 

Dangerous chemicals are getting into hair extensions primarily through the manufacture of synthetic braids and the materials used to make them. 

The plastic fibers used to make some synthetic extensions can absorb harmful chemicals during production, including dyes and chemicals. 

The process of making extensions includes using dyes and finishing agents that also contain toxic chemicals. 

And when exposed to heat, such as when the stylist seals the ends of the braids with a flat iron, VOCs such as formaldehyde and acetone are released and inhaled.  

Dr Rogers added that their findings show it is possible to create a safer product: ‘Some products had lower concentrations of VOCs, and at least one tested negative for heavy metals, including lead—a known carcinogen.

‘This demonstrates that healthier products are possible, including products made without lead and with fewer VOCs.’

One of the most immediate signs of exposure to a cocktail of risky chemicals is a rash on the scalp, face, or neck, the result of the immune system reacting to the allergens in the hair.

Dr Rogers said: ‘This is often attributed to the chemical coatings on the fibers (pesticides, plastics, acrylic, etc.), including those with alkaline bases.’

Manufacturers generally disclose the type of fibers used to make their extensions, but they are not legally required to disclose anything else, including the exact chemicals and additives used in the manufacturing proccess.  

In addition to telling CR that the FDA could not comment on its findings, a spokesperson for the agency said that ‘other federal agencies also may have jurisdiction over hair extension and wig products sold in the United States’ without suggesting which agencies might have jurisdiction.

Oriene Shin, manager of safety advocacy for Consumer Reports, said: ‘It’s appalling that toxic chemicals are in these products with so little scrutiny from those who are supposed to protect people, like the FDA.

‘Consumers should never have to risk their health when choosing personal care products, and yet, harmful ingredients in products marketed to Black women continue to go unaddressed.’

The study’s results show that it is possible to create products that are both lead-free and have reduced levels of VOCs, offering healthier options for consumers. 

Human hair is a less risky alternative to synthetic hair extensions, though it is more expensive. Manufacturers can also opt for plant-based dyes such as henna and indigo, while low-VOC dyes are available and can replace toxin-laden varieties.  

He suggests anyone with a hair appointment in the near future check for recalls on MedWatch and manufacturer websites, carefully read product labels for potential allergens or harmful ingredients, and, later, report any adverse reactions to their healthcare provider and the FDA through MedWatch.

CR did not find any reports about braiding hair safety to the FDA and reported no recalls. 

Reports of adverse health reactions, such as allergic reactions or skin irritation, especially if caused by materials in the extensions, could trigger a recall. 

The FDA would have to conduct independent testing of products, which would likely only happen if a significant public health concern were to arise — such as widespread contamination of synthetic hair extensions with harmful chemicals like lead or carcinogens.  

Dr Elissia Franklin, a scientist leading a study on synthetic hair at the Silent Spring Institute, recommends buying hair products claiming to use only nontoxic ingredients. 

She warned, though, ‘because the products do not need to be tested for these claims before they are put on the market, companies can make those claims without regulation.

‘For the most part, relative to other products, those might be the better option for folks interested in being more conscientious consumers.’