Spring is most people’s favourite season, when flowers start to bloom, the days become longer and the sun finally feels warmer. But it’s not everyone’s favourite time of the year.
With spring comes allergies, and those who wear make-up know how tiresome streaming eyes and itchy noses can be.
“During allergy season, I recommend switching to a more hydrating routine to help restore the skin’s barrier,” says skin and aesthetics expert, Nina Prisk. “I often use anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide or calendula, along with regular SPF as it helps protect your skin.”
So, in light of allergy awareness week, dermatologists and wellness experts go through the ideal beauty routine for allergy-prone skin – and what should be avoided at all costs.
What defines allergy-prone skin, and how is it different from sensitive skin?
The reactions may be the same, but there is a difference between allergy-prone skin and sensitive skin.
“Allergy-prone skin is characterised by an increased likelihood of reacting negatively to certain substances [and] often experience symptoms like redness, swelling, itching or hives upon exposure to these triggers,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Karishma Hemmady at Stratum Clinics.
“This condition occurs because the immune system overreacts to harmless substances, mistaking them for threats,” she says. “Allergy-prone skin can be diagnosed through clinical tests or a history of recurrent reactions.”
Sensitive skin, on the other hand, is a broader term that refers to skin that is more prone to irritation and discomfort, regardless of an allergic reaction.
“It can result from factors like skin barrier dysfunction, dryness or environmental conditions,” explains Hemmady.
“The key difference lies in the underlying cause: allergy-prone skin is an immune reaction to specific allergens, while sensitive skin is often caused by skin vulnerability, which can be aggravated by external or internal factors.”
Both however require tailored skincare, and knowing which ingredients to use and avoid is critical.
How to patch test a product if your skin is easily irritated
Testing your products before use is imperative in order to avoid any nasty reactions.
To patch test effectively, choose a discreet area, then gently cleanse the skin and apply a small amount of product. Then wait at least 24 to 48 hours to observe any reactions.
“During this period, avoid washing the test area or applying other products to it,” says Hemmady.
If you notice any redness, swelling, itching or discomfort, you should stop using the product immediately.
“It’s also important to note that some reactions might take longer to appear, so a 48-hour window is the ideal testing time,” says Hemmady. “For individuals with known allergies, consulting with a dermatologist or allergist for personalised advice is recommended before trying new products.”
What common ingredients to avoid
As allergies can be very specific, getting clinically tested is crucial if you suspect you are allergic to a specific substance.
“As allergies are an immune reaction, seeing a qualified therapist may be the most useful route,” explains naturopathic herbalist Tipper Lewis at Neal’s Yard Remedies.
“For example, a skin reaction to food may involve removing it from your diet so I would recommend seeing a nutritionist for allergy testing and to provide guidance on how to manage your diet for the best results,” she says.
However, there are some common ingredients that can cause irritation on the skin.
“Both allergy-prone and sensitive skin can be supported by a super-gentle skincare routine, which is free from common sensitisers such as fragrances and essential oils, synthetic detergents and alcohol,” explains Lewis.
“Alcohols, particularly denatured alcohol or alcohol-based products, can strip the skin of moisture, leading to dryness and irritation,” says Hemmady.
“Preservatives, such as parabens or formaldehyde-releasing agents, are also often linked to skin sensitivities.”
Both experts suggest using fragrance-free, alcohol-free and hypoallergenic products where possible and always read labels carefully to avoid potentially irritating substances.
The ideal skincare routine for someone with allergy-prone skin
When it comes to skin, less is more never rung so true, and for allergy-prone skin: this is a mantra to live by.
“The foundation of this routine should include a mild, fragrance-free cleanser that won’t strip the skin’s natural oils,” says Hemmady. “Look for a product with soothing ingredients like aloe vera or chamomile, which help calm and hydrate the skin without causing further irritation.”
When it comes to moisturiser, allergy-prone skin benefits from thicker creams that lock in moisture and provide more of a barrier for the skin.
“Look out for ingredients such as borage which helps calm uncomfortable skin, helichrysum extract which soothes and calms the skin and hyaluronic acid to hydrate and plump,” says Lewis.
Alongside ceramides, hyaluronic acid and fatty acids, these ingredients will help support skin repair and reduce inflammation.
Then finishing with an SPF in the mornings is all you need. But Hemmady suggests opting for physical sunscreens over chemical – comprising of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are less likely to irritate.
“When it comes to serums or treatments, it’s important to keep these to a minimum,” says Hemmady.
“Avoid active ingredients like high-potency retinol or potent acids, as these can compromise the skin’s protective barrier.”
Aveda Botanical Kinetics Purifying Gel Cleanser, £23, Sephora
E45 Face Moisturiser Hydrating Face Cream, £7.33, Amazon
The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, £15.90, Look Fantastic
Ultrasun Mineral Face SPF50, £26
The underrated habits experts recommend that makes a big difference
The experts say there are a few simple hacks that can make a big difference to allergy-prone skin.
“One underrated product that can make a significant difference for allergy-prone skin is a fragrance-free moisturiser,” says Hemmady.
“Fragrances, whether synthetic or natural, are among the most common irritants for sensitive skin and can trigger reactions like redness, itching, and swelling.
“Even if a fragrance seems mild or is advertised as “natural,” it can still cause allergic reactions in people with heightened skin sensitivity.”
For her clients, Hemmady emphasises the importance of maintaining proper moisture levels: “As a well-hydrated skin barrier is more resilient to environmental stressors and allergens.”
If you do find yourself with irritations, “A herbal hand soak or bath can help soothe unhappy skin,” says Lewis. “Oats, chamomile and marigold are traditional ingredients.
“Or try organic oats in a muslin bag, pop in the bath and let it soak. Then, rub the soaked bag on the skin for its soothing qualities.”
Green People Scent Free Light Moisturiser, £27
Neal’s Yard Remedies Chamomile Roman Essential Oil, £23
