5 fetish wear brands to have on your radar now

Fetish wear has existed in the shadowy subcultures of fashion for decades, but recently has been infiltrating the mainstream too. Whether it’s Charli xcx in R&M’s mini leather hotpants, Beyoncé in full latex on the Cowboy Carter album cover, FKA twigs gyrating in Craig Morrison’s iconic spiked rubber, or Chappell Roan dominating world stages in masks made by BustedBrand and Zana Bayne, fetish is adding an unexpected flourish to pop culture of late. Below, we list five of the hottest leather, latex and lingerie brands to have on your radar.

Since launching in 2018, UK brand Soft Skin Latex has stayed true to its ethos: “[We’re] an independent, slow fashion company with an emphasis on craftsmanship. We strive for ethical and sustainable production, we don’t mass produce and we don’t follow trends,” says founder Gemma Pickerill. Handmade in England, Soft Skin Latex is for those who enjoy playful design and, according to Pickerill, share “a desire for latex”. It’s become the go-to latex provider for major fashion editorials and even recently created masks for Sukeban’s London wrestling tournament. Soft Skin Latex is also beloved by the queer community, often scouting London’s LGBTQ+ community leaders as models. Looking back on the past six years, Pickerill describes her career highlight to date as the brand’s collaboration with the Tom of Finland Foundation, when she printed the iconic homoerotic drawings onto latex garments. Every individual piece is handmade to order, get more information here.

R&M Leathers has been dominating social feeds recently, whether via Gabbriette lighters or the ambiguous, IYKYK slogan ‘Pure England Sex’. Dua Lipa and Charli xcx are big fans, as is the aforementioned It-girl Gabbriette, who even designed a leather apron for the brand. Founder Ruby Marian describes R&M as “heavy leather wear”, and pays homage to both fetish and heavy metal subculture through her designs. “It’s a feminine nod to the rawness and charm of clandestine worlds,” Marian explains. Her definition of sexy is built on several pillars: laced boots, former porn star Cicciolina, JG Ballard’s writing, Cosey Fanni Tutti in a pair of mules and bobby socks, but mainly, “Freedom and restriction working together.” Peruse the heavy leathers here.

Craig Morrison first began designing his instantly recognisable spiked rubber creations in the late 80s. His barbed backpacks, chokers and leather jackets have found a home in the permanent collections of the V&A and the Science Museum, and were a prominent staple of London’s underground nightlife scene during the 90s. After ceasing production in the early 00s, last January, Morrison’s two daughters Leia and Hattie, decided to persuade him to revisit the archives. Not only that, the Wales-based trio have redesigned and relaunched his iconic designs – and discovered a corner of passionate TikTok followers too.

“Our brand ethos is rooted in the limitations of the body,” Morrison explains. “This can be seen as both a fetish ideology, but also, and more so for me, was about being half-human, half-machine, and where design was at the time with the approach of the millennium and technology taking over. The designs eventually became about completely encasing the body as a way to celebrate and hide it, at the same time.” He describes the inspiration for his work as a melting pot of “cyberpunk, goth, punk and fetishist influence”. Most recently, the brand has been working alongside FKA Twigs to create looks for her upcoming project, Eusexua – “She’s an amazing performer who fits the spaces we’ve existed in for decades. It was a no-brainer when she asked to collaborate.” Shop here.

When Lady Gaga met the late Queen Elizabeth II in Blackpool in 2009, the singer paid tribute to historical queens (namely, Liz the 1st), wearing a cherry-red latex gown by Atsuko Kudo. “They were the only designers that I could think of that were actually tailoring latex in this way,” Gaga said of the look, which made headlines around the world. “I did not expect the reaction this moment would create,” explains Kudo. “It seemed like Queen Elizabeth II was happy as in all of the pictures she is smiling broadly. The pictures were front page news all around the world.  Because of this moment it seemed like latex became more generally accepted, though it hasn’t changed anything about its sensual qualities.”

The Japanese designer has been creating rubber latex designs since 2001, and last month, she launched a silicone-based lube called Dressing for Pleasure, to help people easily slip into her designs (as well as for any other purpose you desire). “Sexy is how you feel inside and each person feels that differently. For me it’s when I encounter beauty and love,” says Kudo. See the latest collection here.

Los Angeles-based BustedBrand was founded by Mariano Cortez in 2016 with a focus on latex and lingerie, as well as “innovative fabrication and making it practical for everyday wear,” Cortez explains. In LA, he is known as the King of Latex, and describes his label as somewhere between fetish and fashion, made for those who push the boundaries between both worlds. “My favourite part is seeing people enjoy the pieces I create. I appreciate the trust from stylists, collaborators, celebrities, and friends who allow us to bring their visions to life. It’s been an honour to be part of so many incredible moments,” says Cortez.

To name but a few, earlier this year, Cortez designed the Western latex look worn by Beyoncé on her Cowboy Carter album cover, and is a favourite of Chappell Roan and Nadia Lee Cohen, too. “Sexy is an attitude,” he says. “It’s confidence, authenticity, and being unafraid to be yourself.” Discover more here.