Huge changes announced for travellers heading to Uluru: Here’s what you need to know before you go

There have been huge changes in regards to what tourists can and can’t do on a trip to Uluru, with the latest being rolled out in August and more to come imminently.

A trip to Uluru used to involve camping in the scrub at the base of the 8.63m tall monolith before attempting to scale it the following day.

It became a rite of passage for young Australians whose adventurous parents and grandparents had taken advantage of the stunning holiday spot in their youth.

But in 2019 the climb was closed over safety concerns and out of respect of the Anangu, the traditional custodians of the land.

There was outrage over the announcement of the closure with many voices claiming it would be the end of tourism in the heart of Australia. Thousands of people rushed to the top of the rock in the final days and there was even a competition over who could be ‘the last one on the climb’.

Critics flagged one change would lead to another, and they were right. The last major change was rolled out in August 2024.

But they were also wrong. Tourism in the area is back to pre-climb closure levels and the Anangu, in collaboration with the team at Ayers Rock resort, have managed to transform the iconic destination from a two-day pit-stop in the desert to a place people head for a five-day holiday.

I set out with my son to re-discover the red-centre as the resort celebrated its 40th ‘birthday’ – after spending time there with a friend in 2017.

I was blown away.

When I went in 2016, to see Field of Lights, there wasn’t much else to do.

Sure there were walking tracks and camel rides and the area itself is obviously stunning but there was an awkward feeling of disconnection which I found hard to define.

Now I know that hole in the heart of the country was caused by the lack of overt, shared cultural experiences and the obvious lack of collaboration between the Anangu and the tourism operators, national parks and resorts.

That hole has definitely been filled. Here’s how:

Sunrise Journeys 

The latest huge change to the tourism program, Sunrise Journeys, was rolled out on August 1 this year.

The laser-light show tells the story of the seasons, in local language with local artwork by local people, and is absolutely captivating.

We were transported from the hotel precinct, where we stayed at the beautiful Sails Resort, to the sunrise viewing deck by AAT Kings tours.

We sat in darkness in the moments before the show started, letting the desert magic Uluru is known for wash over us.

 At that time of the day the rock is a silhouette against the pre-dawn sky.

Then the show started.

It was told with such emotion you could feel every beat of music inside your stomach and as the story climbed and swirled so did the feeling.

At one point I felt I could cry, and I heard my six-year-old son sigh ‘wow’. 

The rest of the crowd had all-but disappeared for me before that. Following the show the desert’s natural production began – a stunning sunrise with direct views toward Uluru on one side of the viewing platform and Kata Tjuta on the other. 

The Sunrise Journeys experience was created by Anangu in collaboration with Voyages Tourism – the operators of the Sails In The Desert Resort.

It costs $100 per adult and $75 per child and includes breakfast, coffee and hot chocolate.

Tali Wiru

This one isn’t budget, but it is also unforgettable.

Tali Wiru translates to ‘Beautiful Dune’ in Anangu language – and is the location of an outdoor dining experience like no other.

The Tali Wiru dining experience is Australia’s highest rated outdoor hatted restaurant, according to the Good Food guide.

And I can see why.

The evening began with delicious canapes – they are seasonal so offerings change throughout the year but each morsel danced on my tastebuds.

The flavours exploded in my mouth and sent happy ripples through my entire body; the dinner was a complete sensory experience.

The warm air flickered with an evening breeze which carried subtle scents of the desert, sandy earthy tones layered with wild flowers.

Then it was time to sit down for the meal, prepared by chefs on site.

The four-course meal was exceptional but it was the dessert which came with its own dramatic little show which really sealed the deal.

Following desserts, the table lamps are switched off plunging the dining site into darkness – allowing the stars above to shine.

The guide then talks about the stars, navigation and shared a story he saw written in the star-scape,

From there we went to a large fire where we enjoyed hot chocolate and got to see some of the tools used by Anangu.

The overland-style bus then picked us up and took us back to the hotel precinct.

The Tali Wiru experience is $440-per-head.

Field of Light

I was excited to head back to see this amazing installation by the internationally celebrated artist Bruce Munro. I was amazed when I saw it in 2016 and thrilled to learn it had been completely renewed earlier this year.

As we pulled up my son said ‘woah the desert is a rainbow, how beautiful,’ which is probably what everyone else was thinking. There are 50,000 lights covering more than seven football fields in the exhibition.

We went with AAT Kings, which is $100 per person and includes a coffee, hot chocolate and transfers.

But you can get access to the artscape for $45 if you have your own transport.

The lights change colour every few seconds and as the sun rises, making it really feel like some kind of oasis.

From the field there is of course a magical view of Uluru and the surrounding desert-scape.

If I am lucky enough to head back to Uluru I will definitely take another look at this much-loved exhibition.

It has been extended ‘indefinitely’ due to its intense popularity. 

The exhibition, aptly named Tili Wiru Tjuta Nyakutjaku or ‘looking at lots of beautiful lights’ in local Pitjantjatjara is Munro’s largest work to date. 

Camel tour

Camels are pests in central Australia, but I can’t deny it is a very cool way to see the outback. 

From the back of our lovely camel we were able to see so much of the native flora and fauna.

The breadth and colours of the desert flowers, which were in full bloom, really stood out for me.

The guide also explained they do not breed camels, they take them from the wild and train them.

There are also camel-control initiatives which help to keep numbers of the introduced species down.

Camels will eat a whole plant, drain a waterhole and leave the native animals to starve or struggle with thirst.

They also chew their cud like cows, so when they do finally go to the toilet there’s no seeds in their stools to help replace the plants they consumed.

Barbecue at the base of Uluru

For this one you need to make sure you have a national parks pass.

The other activities above are not actually in the park – so they don’t require one.

Children under 17 don’t need a pass – everyone else can purchase a three-day option for $38. It is best to do this before you head to the red centre.

We took advantage of the Uluru Sunset and barbecue experience, and it was amazing.

The night began with a bus ride to the viewing area. The colours of the rock changed before our eyes as the sun dipped below the horizon – then it was time for dinner.

We were taken to the base of Uluru where the famous Mala walk begins. We walked about 300 metres to the barbecue site where we were seated at a table.

The cooks prepared a variety of meat, salad and sides, with the steak and the kangaroo pieces being highlights.

Drinks were included and the staff attentively waited on the tables.

After dinner the lights were dimmed and the guide pointed out the stars – I was thrilled to find each guide told different stories and pointed out different things in the night sky.

We then jumped back on the bus and were taken to the resort.

The resort

The resort area itself was amazing.

Local Anangu and tourists meet in the precinct and what used to be an awkward ‘us and them’ feeling in the heart of Australia felt more like a decisive ‘we or us’ feeling. 

The resort has a pool which is perfect for hot days – temperatures can rise quickly and we found ourselves enjoying a few swims a day.

There are also free talks available in the town square, and the opportunity to buy artwork from local artists.

Everywhere you go there are signs in Anangu language – helping teach tourists how to say every day phrases like ‘hello’ to locals.

The resort actively works with local communities to help tourism work for them, understand what is and isn’t culturally appropriate and to help them have access to things like work, further education and opportunities. 

We spoke to Anangu elders who revealed local stories must be told on Anangu land – which means those interested in the culture need to head to the red centre to learn more.

However, there are loads of activities we didn’t have time for in our quick two-night, three-day journey.

This includes the Mala walk, which I did in 2016. During this walk a local story is shared with guests and sacred sites are revealed.

The stunning drone show, which tells another important story from their culture, a walk or ride around the rock, take a bush tucker tour, have a helicopter tour and much more.

From my visit I felt the Anangu had stepped back into empowerment and grown in confidence when it comes to sharing their stories and culture with visitors.

They appeared happy to take the lead, alongside the management teams at National Parks and Voyages.

They have promised the changes will continue to roll out – with more opportunities for guests to experience the true culture of the people which have lived in the communities around the rock for thousands of years.

The slogan Ayres Rock resort have chose for Uluru and the surrounding area is ‘just wow’. 

And once you get there, it’s not hard to see why.