Saint Laurent AW25 men’s37 Images
Since Saint Laurent decided to wedge its menswear show in between the women’s and Haute Couture shows, Tuesday night in Paris has been a pretty glam affair. The house has been going from strength to strength across the last couple of years under Anthony Vaccarello’s guidance, turning out endless sexy collections for both his hot boss bitches and his slick, sleek boys – and last night was no different. Here’s everything you need to know.
Turning up to take in the show came house ambassador Zoë Kravitz in a nude ruffled mini dress, as well as Gabbriette, Lourdes Leon, and Dominic Fike in a slouchy suit and tie from last season’s collection. Joining them were Thai singer Ten, whose army of fans assembled outside to get sight of him and screamed at an unholy decibel when he did eventually arrive, and The Dare, who was surely always destined to become a Saint Laurent boy eventually. Rounding things off was legendary Betty Blue actor Beatrice Dalle, who’s become a regular sight on the YSL front row (if you haven’t seen the movie, add it to your watchlist).
Saint Laurent’s relationship to the silver screen is becoming tighter and tighter, with the house’s production arm going strong right now. With that in mind, it made sense that some of the most mega directors ever to make movies took a spot on the front row. This time, we got a triple whammy in the form of Jim Jarmusch, Gaspar Noé and king of weirdo body horror David Cronenberg. All three have worked with Saint Laurent in some way, either starring in campaigns or directing Vaccarello’s frequent short films. It’s usually pretty difficult to ruffle a hardened fashion editor’s feathers but Cronenberg particularly got a few gasps out of them.
The already grand building where Saint Laurent has staged a bunch of its recent shows got even more bougie when Vaccarello got his hands on it again. This time the big circular chamber had been lined with plush cream carpet and luxe black leather sofas, with a handful of fallen crystal chandeliers forming a centrepiece in the middle of the space.
‘If it’s not broke, don’t fix it’ seemed to be the message coming from the Saint Laurent atelier, with Vaccarello turning out another collection that came heavy on the slouchy, Rive Gauche suiting Yves himself made his name on. In muted hues spanning camel, coffee, and classic black, monochromatic tonal suits and ties were layered under savage buttery leather trenches both short and long, as well as more casual bombers and cocoon-y car coats. It was all about “a menacing, seductive elegance” for AW25 Vaccarello explained, and there was an undertone of danger to the collection – that danger possibly being the suave Saint Laurent man making you fall head over heels for him only to then leave you on read. Rounding things off was a series of looks embellished with plumes of feathers, which we’re hoping to see on the red carpet when awards season kicks off next weekend.
A key inspiration for the season came from the work of legendary photographer Robert Mapplethorpe and was most evident in the mega-kinky boots every model hit the runway in. Crafted from supple leather, a little slouchy and stretching all the way up the thigh, the sexy waders were a surprise element that felt like they shouldn’t necessarily work with the suiting that dominated the collection, but really, really did. Who’s going to be brave enough to wear them?
Scroll through the gallery above to see Saint Laurent’s entire AW25 men’s collection
