It’s hard to know what skincare changes you should actually make as time goes on when different sources tell you conflicting things. One magazine article might say that this one ingredient is THE holy grail — and then the next video you scroll upon will tell you that it’s ‘damaging your skin barrier.’ Cool.
So, who do you listen to over the confusing noise? A dermatologist who’s actually trained, that’s who. We asked Dr Shammi Theesan from ODE Transformative Dermatologist your burning questions on how to take care of your skin as it ages.
Here’s everything you need to know about how your skin changes and ways you can update your routine accordingly.
How does our skin change over time?
Firstly, I just want to say that your skin ageing is perfectly natural and normal. I find it helpful to understand it rather than be scared of it, so we know how to take care of our skin properly.
It turns out that a couple of things happen to our skin over time. Theesan explained that our epidermal cell turnover (AKA the outer layer of our skin) decreases, which makes us more prone to things like age spots, dehydration and lack of luminosity. Our collagen and elastin levels also decrease, making the dermis (the thickest layer of the skin) structurally weaker.
If you’re wondering about the science behind why our skin sags, it’s because our facial muscle tone and density deteriorates. Our fat pad structure and location also droop and lose their volume.
The first signs of your skin ageing are wrinkling around the eyes, skin dehydration, large pores, loss of elasticity, and reduced skin healing.
@pippa.henderson the glasses😂 #oldagefilter #aging #timetravel #mumanddaughter #agefilterchallenge #agefilter2023 ♬ Little Life – Cordelia
What should you avoid to slow down the natural signs of ageing?
“Sun damage, poor quality sleep, poor diet, smoking and stress levels speed up this [ageing] process,” Theesan explained.
She mentioned that ingredients like coenzyme Q10, vitamin C, vitamin B3, and retinol will help protect your skin in the long run.
You can find Q10 in products like NIVEA’s Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Night Range, which creates firmer feeling skin and reduces wrinkles in seven days*.
What’s a healthy long-term skincare routine?
Two big things stood out from Theesan’s skincare routine tips. The first is prioritising topical skincare, and the second, which surprised me, is internal wellness. For example, are you getting an adequate sleep of seven to nine hours? You and I both know we’re not getting that much.
Plus, are you eating an antioxidant-rich diet? Eating foods such a berries, spinach, beans, beetroots and more can help to reduce glucose and insulin spikes — which can cause skin glycation and collagen damage. Theesan also explained that you should double cleanse at night to remove pollutants and makeup debris on the skin, followed by a retinol or peptide-based serum.
What shouldn’t we overlook in our long-term skincare routine?
A combination of serums is your secret weapon. This may help to combat cellular damage — just make sure they’re rich in antioxidants like NIVEA’s Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Expert Dual Action Serum and NIVEA’s Anti-Wrinkle Expert Targeted Wrinkle Filler Serum.
“I would recommend using two serums with the third agent being a moisturising cream with a skin active,” Theesan explained. “Often using three or more serums at one time can result in reduced penetration of each serum and overwhelm the skin barrier.”
What’s the thinnest skin on our face? How can we look after it?
“The thinnest part of our face is the periorbital area, as it has fewer oil glands, less subcutaneous fat and lower collagen density,” Theesan said.
Translation: The thinnest part of your face is the under eyes.
The best way to protect it is with ingredients like Q10, creatine and hyaluronic acid, which you can find in products like NIVEA’s Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Extra Firming Eye Cream.
Is there a way to test if our skin is dehydrated? How can we rehydrate our face?
Theesan recommends the pinch test (a test to measure how quickly the skin bounces back after being pinched) to determine whether your skin is dehydrated. You can also look for fine lines and a lack of overall skin brightness.
“I would suggest a combination of antioxidants such as Q10 and vitamin C to be locked in with hydrating moisturisers containing a lipid-rich molecule such as squalene,” Theesan explained. “Hydration-enhancing molecules such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerine should be prioritised.”
You can find some of the above ingredients in products like NIVEA’s Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Replenishing Night Cream.
If you’re wondering what order you should do your hydrating night time routine in, here’s what Theesan suggests. You can start with a cleanser, followed by a general serum, eye cream, night cream, and finishing with a targeted wrinkle serum (which you can find examples of above).
As mentioned above, if you’re looking for extra ways to protect your skin’s longevity, then sleep, an antioxidant-rich diet, minimising processed foods, weight training, high-intensity exercises, and reducing stress levels will help.
Well, there you have it, folks. I’ve learnt a lot today and I hope you found this helpful, too. Now, if you don’t mind me, I’m going to go do some skincare.
*Self grading, 42 women, 2021.
