Japanese hairstylist, Nero has built a name for himself in New York through his punk and editorial looks. But, away from set, he’s harboured a (semi) secret passion for photography. For the last four years, many of Nero’s days off have looked like this: he goes to the ‘studio’ he converted from an unused room in his apartment building’s basement in Ridgewood, New York, and cuts his friends’ hair (or friends of friends). At the end of the haircut, he takes a photo of the haircut on a Big Shot camera.
Today, Nero has built up a solid network of purely word-of-mouth clientele. He says he enjoys getting to know the people in his chair and calls the end of a fresh cut a ‘special moment’. These moments are something he’s kept and collected over the years – compiling them into the book Youth, which he released in May. On Friday, December 6, Nero will showcase the iconic go-see series at his first American solo exhibition at Authorized Dealer, a new gallery space in Los Angeles by artist and creative director Jarod Taber. The exhibition includes 34 polaroids, six large format prints, and even some live haircutting in the building.
Ahead, we caught up with Nero before the opening to chat about getting to know his clients, using Andy Warhol’s camera, and capturing the ‘special moment’ that is a haircut reveal.
How did you get into hairstyling?
Nero: I was really interested in fashion when I was young. I was always curious about other people’s hair. But I got into hairstyling when I was 16 years old in Tokyo. I met a guy who owned a hair salon and was a hair and make-up artist when I went for a haircut in high school. I wanted to be that cool, so I started to do it. Then, I went to beauty school and moved to Paris before I came to New York City in 2014.
What about photography?
Nero: When I moved to New York, I started to use a point-and-shoot. I love Andy Warhol, so I have so many of his photography books. His style is iconic. For this project, I had an idea of what I wanted to do but didn’t know what to do, so I went Googling and asked my friends about it. I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I use a camera from the 70s – the same one as Warhol.
Tell me about the subjects in Youth. How did you find them?
Nero: I have a studio in Ridgewood, New York, where people come and get a haircut on the days I’m not working on set. I thought taking a photo after the haircut would be nice because I have so many moments with people as I cut their hair. On set, photographers meet the models and say, ‘Hey, what’s up?’ then shoot. But I have so many conversations with people while I cut their hair. I know their lifestyle, what they do, and what they like. It’s a special moment.
So, how do your clients find you?
Nero: People hear of me or recommend me to friends of friends. When they text or DM me, I tell them, ‘My address is here, and you can come at this time.’ I don’t just take photos of professional models. Most of the people that come work in fashion, but I never decided that only fashion people could come. Anyone can come if I’m available.
Do people ask for different haircuts in New York than they did in Tokyo?
Nero: In Tokyo, people style their hair so much. Even the men wake up, take showers, dry their hair, and use a curler or some paste. In New York, people come to my place and say they just want to wet their hair in the morning and be ready to go. Super cool. That’s interesting because they don’t want to take time in the morning before they go out, so I cut people’s hair super natural.
This is your first exhibition in the US. What do you have planned?
Nero: I’m so excited. Before the show, some people asked Jarrod if I would do haircuts in LA. So I asked him what he thought about me doing haircuts in the gallery. I told him I could do three or four people on opening day because I used to cut hair for 20 or 25 people per day in Tokyo, but now I like to know my clients. It’s important for the haircut. A haircut is special.
Do you have a favourite photo from the show?
Nero: It’s too hard to decide because I love all of the photos and people.
What about after this exhibition? What do you have in the works?
Nero: I’m making a self-portrait book using the same camera. Everything is the same composition, but I am wearing a wig by myself, and I cut and colour everything. I often use wigs for editorials but that’s completely different from when I wear them. I want to tell people how important hair is by showing many characters in the photos.
Youth by Nero is on show at Authorized Dealer in Los Angeles from 6 December 2024 to 1 February 2025.
